Photos of leg 1.... in brief!

Best cycling: Austria
Worst cycling: Hungary

Best campites: France

Best food: Italy
Best coffee: France
Best breakfasts: France/ hotel in Vienna
Best wine: France/ Austria (Sturm!)
Best beer: Germany

Worst day: that day in Hungary.... 3 puntures, 1 fall and an afternoon lost on impassable roads
Best day: cycling through Austria's Wachau, picking plums and apples as we went

Best bike shops: Germany

Favourite cities: Ulm, Besancon, Bratislava
Least favourite cities: Nantes, Linz

Most pleasant surprise: night in hotel on National Stud Farm after that day in Hungary
Least pleasant surprise: rain in Brittany in July... what's that all about?

Best value for money: Hungary
Worst value for money: Switzerland

Best cycle tracks: Austria/ Germany

Friendliest people: Germany

Best countryside: Alsace/ Austria/ upper Danube

Most punctures in one day: 3

Best playgrounds: France/ Germany

Most child friendly country: Germany

Most recommended for a family cycling holiday: France (weather, cycling, food, campsites, pools)

Worst drivers: Italians/ Romanians

Most bizarre sight: rural Romania..... where do we begin?

Toughest hill: relentlessly vicious 6km uphill to spend a night in Wildenstein Castle, Germany
Best downhill: coming back down from Wildenstein the next morning

Best looking people: Italy/ Bratislava
Most stylish people: Italy

Luca's favourites: pasta in Italy/ apple juice in Austria/ playgrounds in France/ thermal baths in Hungary



Linda, Phil & Luca

Autumn and harvest time in Germany, Austria, Slovakia and Hungary


I've just re-read my posts from France, which now seem an age ago, and have wondered how I could possibly encapsulate all we have seen since into a post (I know I covered Germany but only cities and towns you may recall?) ?

And then I realised that there is one theme which encompasses our cycling experiences through  Germany, Austria, Slovakia and Hungary; autumn. One really experiences how marked the change in season when outdoors most of the day coupled with having limited clothes stock due to limited carrying capacity; you are completely at the mercy of the weather.

In our neck of the woods autumn has now well and truly arrived and, in fact, winter has even begun to creep in.
With that change I now truly note, more than ever before,  how autumn gives nature its beautiful due...

Germany:
Cycling through the German countryside I couldn't help but recall the small town Kansas depicted in Truman Capote's "In Cold Blood". As we cycled through the rural residential areas the surroundings conjured up images of wholesome living in small, close knit communites where apple pies (or rather apfel strudel) lay steaming, waiting to cool, on window sills. I didn't actually see any such steaming apple pies, you understand,  but they were all the time suggested by the neat, well tended gardens and the laden orchards housed therein. Even the cycle path was apple strewn....rendering it unavoidable to cycle over the windfallen ones at times. What a pleasure!

It was in Germany that Luca first fell in love with the timeless children's autumnal game of collecting chestnuts. We were breakfasting on a picnic table in the campsite we were staying in outside Regensburg and chestnuts were literally showering down on us from the trees above helped by the squirrels jumping overhead. Gleefully and carefully they were gathered, examined, laid out in a line and counted by him. Over and over again.    


Austria:
Having had our appetites for apples whetted in Germany we finally got an opportunity, in Austria, to sample the tantalising red variety we'd witnessed ripen over the preceeding weeks. There were lots of wild apple trees alongside the cycle track in Austria some of which were within picking reach and which we all thoroughly enjoyed on inpromptu stops. But the place which provided the biggest bounty of reachable fresh fruit ripe for the picking was the stunning Wachau wine region in Austria where there were tasty wild plums and apples aplenty. The Wachau was by far one of the highlights of our cycle trip, not just through Austria, but possibly thus far. It was a place untouched by time and progress, in a good way, where quaint, old villages lie intermittently through the vast expanses of  vineyards. As far as the eye can see there are sloping terraces of vines which, we were informed by one wine maker, mean that machines can't be used so all of the wine picking etc. is carried out by hand in the old style. We witnessed this harvesting ourselves by people of all ages,  as we cycled through on our last day there,  against a backdrop of smoking old vines on hilltops. It is a special place which would be wonderful to visit in all seasons. In spring the apricot blossoms are abloom which is meant to be a stunning sight and in winter it would make for very a romantic, snowy and old world setting. But autumn brought the fertile earth there and its keepers' labours into their own.

Slovakia and Hungary:
I am categorising these two countries together merely because we seem to be cycling one minute in one and the next in the other and so, for the purposes of countryside cycling, they have melded together in my mind. Vicous dogs barking and snarling from every second gate (literally) as we cycle, poor cycle tracks and some grey weather have made the cycling at times very hard going here. We got lost, for the first time on this trip,  two days ago and found ourselves in very remote and agrarian surroundings. The kind that time seemed to have forgotten but not necessarily in a good way. Phil and I both had concerns that darkness would fall before we found our way once again. But it all worked out fine in the end thanks to Phil's great navigation.

Little old ladies in head scarves peeking their heads over gates, small self-sufficient holdings and old men on bicycles  - some of them with saws in their front baskets (possibly coming from work)  - these are images of rural Hungary and Slovakia which will stay with me. But also the image of autumn leaves falling as we cycle and cycling over carpets of them.

I love autumn and have loved seeing it evolve from our bicycle seats in so many different countries and manifest itself in so many different ways. But it has made me think of home. With some longing but also with some sadness. The latter because the rest of Europe seems, to me, to be enjoying their harvests while Ireland is experiencing very fallow years. Now I know, of course, other countries have suffered from the recession but Germany, for example, is now prospering twenty years post re-unification. The longing stems from memories of autumns past at home. Lovely walks kicking up leaves, the Farmleigh markets, the Sunday market in The People's Park and sitting at the al fresco cafe in Killiney Hill enjoying a hot chocolate. I think that, perhaps, I am starting to miss "a home" as opposed to home. We reach Budapest shortly and will assess our options going forward but both Phil and I are starting to think that a re-direction of some sort may be in order. More anon once we reach Budapest and reflect. For now - back on the bikes and back to those carpets of leaves.

Wow. Time has flown. I honestly cannot belive that we are saying “Auf Wiedersehn” to Germany as we cycle from Passau into Austria today. This will be our second border crossing, by bike, but the fifth country we will visit. As Phil has said we haven't really had a chance to record our impressions of the Germany we've experienced, as we've pedalled along the Danube, on the blog to date but here's a whistle stop tour of the  highlights. I'm a bit pressed for time so will only have a chance to touch on city/towns we've particularly enjoyed here but there's so much more to say especially re. the countryside but it'll have to be in another post. Watch this space....

Donaueschingen and the Danube source:
As we cycled through the streets of the very pretty town of Donaueschingen toward the source of the Danube, struck by the distinctive baroque architecture and the dominance of the Furstenberg brewery, there was a palpable sense of excitement and anticipation amongst our little clan. Even, dare I say it, a litte bit of pride at having made it there. You see, as well as marking the beginning of a new adventure (within an adventure) that would navigate us through 10 countries, the beginning of this great river represented the culmination of months of initial pondering and chatting about and then planning and preparation for this trip. A trickle of an idea had grown, taken shape, ( mainly, I have to say, due to Phil's meticulous and thorough research) , and formed this cycling family we'd all, by then, become. As we cycled I recalled leafing through the pages of the cycling guide we had purchased in London on the plane coming home from the RGS Seminar in London in November 2009, reading about the Danube source and now we were actually going to see it for ourselves.

It didn't disappoint. As Phil's photo's show it was a really stunning spot marked by a water pool and plaques representing each of the countries the Danube traverses. There was a definite “place chemistry” for us not only because of the beauty of the place but for the reasons above. We've special memories of dropping coins into the water pool with Luca and making a wish. Now I made a wish for a safe journey allright, as Phil has mentioned, but also a little private wish. I can't share it though unless and until it comes through. Will keep you posted! :)

Tuttlingen:
This is a really lovely town and very cycle friendly...well apart from when you cycle into the middle of the market on market day. We found ourselves, literally, trapped in the midst of the throng of intent market goers until some kind lady ushered us away and re-directed us back to the cycle track where, it seems, we belonged with our bikes and gear. There's an amazing public park there which hosts those German stalwarts of crazy golf and a Beer Garden aswell as one of the most impressive spielplatz/ playgrounds I've ever seen and Luca and, em, well, his Dad has ever experienced. There was an actual digger which you could, and Luca did, operate to mix sand and water, dig out a moat etc.... with a little help from a not unwilling Dad that is!




We also visited the Tuwass here which is a water extravaganza with indoor pools, slides and an outdoor heated thermal bath. It was like experiencng a much bigger and better child friendly version of Brook Lodge spa for 7 Euro! Sometimes one can feel a little hard done by stuck in the toddlers pool but I actually enjoyed the impressive “free play” toddlers pool there as much as Luca while someone (who shall remain nameless!) sampled the “terrifying” slide. When we all (reluctantly) left the Tuwass Luca actually thanked us for bringing him there and told us it was great fun so impressed was he. From the mouth of babes....


Castle Wildenstein:
We stayed the night in the castle itself or rather in the youth hostel which this famous old castle now houses. I'd phoned earlier that day to book and explained we were cyclists etc. and the lady on the phone was at pains to tell me that the castle was atop a very steep hill. We knew what we were letting ourselves in for as our guide book had a similar health warning but we thought that we'd have an adventure..a decision we regretted several times on the heartbreaking 6 kilometre ascent up hairpin bends but were thoroughly glad afterwards that we'd made. As a funny final word when we were checking in Phil, who minds our passports, was very reluctant to cede mine to my bewilderment. He later confessed that he thought that they'd tell me I was too old for a youth hostel!

A River runs through it ....Ulm:
This is a truly beautiful, old, walled German university town through which the Danube flows and the ducks enjoy trying to swim contra flow so strong is the current. This was one of our favourite German cities. We had very cold and wet weather en route there and while there so, to warm our bones, we eschewed the campsite in favour of a bike friendly pension which, as it turned out, was beautifully situated on the banks of the Danube nestled twixt the Main (cathedral) square and the old fishermans quarter. We braved the cold for some al fresco quaffing at the outdoor terrace of the Inn next door to our Pension on candlelit stone steps while below us, literally, as in at our feet, the Danube rushed and gushed by.

Now being a librarian's wife and having a librarian brother in law, with whom we've holidayed with lots of times, trust me when I say that I've seen my fair share of libraries both at home and abroad. But I have never, and nor has Phil, seen a library as impressive as the one in Ulm. As I said the weather was cold and wet so we initially went seeking shelter but ended up passing a very pleasant 3 hours or so there. We were allowed use the internet for up to 90 mins per day there and both took turns doing so while the other played in the AMAZING junior section with Luca. They had a selection of beautiful Haba wooden toys for kids as well as teddy bears and a fantastic selection of books in both German and English. Their original and english Paddington Bear, which it seems hadn't been taken out since 1999, got an airing while we were there by someone, who shall again remain nameless (while Luca loves Paddington he can't read yet if you get my drift). Luca and I were having so much fun playing with the Haba games that other children came over to watch and a woman approached me asking me if I gave English lessons....At least I know I've the prospect of a job in Ulm!




Regensburg:
Another stunning old university walled town but very different from Ulm in character and appearance. We both thought that it was very similar to Lucca in Italy with it's narrow cobbled stone streets and, as with Lucca, it's a mecca for cyclists. Luca's chariot was in very good company here! The shops were fantastic and included some beautiful old fashioned hat boutiques. Viewed only by the outside by me though. Budget and gear carrying are serious considerations. There was a real buzz in the evenings in particular at the cafe's, bars and restaurants.  I vowed to return there some Christmas time for their famed Christmas markets as it's the kind of place that lends itself to Christmas and it's magic.

We're in Passau, at the end of our German leg, about to hit Austria tomorrow. The few weeks we've spent cycling through Germany have been Wunderbar and memorable, but we haven't been able to give the experience its due on the blog as wifi has been hard to come by.



I've uploaded some photos from the last week or two, so click on the Photos tab above to have a look. Linda also promises to post soon..... so keep an hour or two free to read that!

Halfway down the German stretch of the Danube/ Deutsch Donau, 300km down the Danube and now over 1500km into the journey, we're still very much enjoying daily life on the bikes.

The weather took a turn for the worse over the last week and it made us realise how big a part good weather plays in this cycling life.... when the sun shines, it's glorious, when it's cold and raining it can be miserable! As September draws to a close, we'd better start getting used to the latter. But just as quickly as dark clouds loomed, they dispersed and it seems that we're in for another summery spell, at least for the next week or so.

Since its source, irrespective of rain or sunshine, the Danube has brought us through some stunning countryside and beautiful towns and villages.



We're currently in a lovely town called Donauworth, unfortunately missing Oktoberfest in not too distant Munich, but endeavouring to enjoy the local beer nonetheless! Despite the draw of local ale, we're pressing on, as we're meeting family in Vienna, 600km or so downstream, at the end of the month.

Having spent six weeks in France, we finally dragged ourselves away on Monday when we cycled across the German border. We enjoyed a chill out day in Freiburg on Tuesday, and then decided to get a train the few hours to Donaueshingen on Wednesday - keen to set eyes on the Danube, keen to avoid a day of miserable rain on the bikes and keen to nip Luca's developing sniffle in the bud.

We had been told that the source of Danube and its accompanying fanfare are disappointing and underwhelming, but we didn't find it so at all. We spent a very peaceful half hour or so there, read the plaques representing each of the ten countries the Danube passes through and dropped three coins into the beautifully clear blue water, wishing for a safe and enjoyable journey down its length. Well, Linda and I did, Luca wished for a bag of jellies!





We've only been in Germany for a few days, but we've been pleasantly surprised by the remarkable warmth and friendliness of the people.... from giving Luca lolllipops in shops, giving him toys to play with in restaurants, randomly offering us help and directions on the street, to helping us with our laden bikes and bags in towns. Perhaps it was a misplaced belief in a stereotype of a cold demeanour that had us expecting otherwise, but we have found the German people the friendliest and most welcoming we've met so far.

We've just finished our first day cycling along the Danube cycle path and it was glorious. Stunning scenery, chocolate-box Bavarian villages, fantastic wildlife and, above all, paved and flat cycle path. The Danube runs for almost 3000km to the Black Sea... or to be precise (we are in Germany after all!), 2840km.




Cycling along its entire length is an exciting but daunting prospect. It'll take us a few months, but despite the distinct autumn chill in the air, we're looking forward to every kilometre of it.